Beyond trends

The textile industry is undergoing a transformational shift, driven by rising demands for carbon footprint reduction, regulatory compliance, and growing consumer awareness of environmental issues. This shift expands the focus beyond trends and aesthetics to encompass factors such as transparency, traceability, and product end-of-life considerations. Economic challenges, such as rising costs and supply chain disruptions, along with technological advancements, are pushing for innovation.

At Nilörn, we recognise the importance of understanding the broader implications of these changes within the textile supply chain. Collaborating with our partners and gaining their expert insights is vital for identifying shared priorities to advance sustainability initiatives together. The discussion offered valuable insights into the challenges we face and highlighted opportunities for collaboration and innovation that will shape the future of trims and packaging.

➤ We are united by our goals: lowering carbon footprints, enhancing transparency, and leading innovation while navigating regulatory changes and engaging stakeholders.

Axel Arigato’s sustainability program is centered around three core pillars: Climate, Creations, and Community –aimed at reducing their carbon footprint while trying to create timeless pieces of footwear that last a lifetime. Cecily Rooney remarks, “This conversation is perfectly timed for us, as we’re continually exploring ways to reduce the environmental impact of our products, including their trims and packaging.”

Similarly, VAUDE prioritises minimising its environmental footprint through material innovation. René Bethmann emphasises, “Materials are definitely a key focus for us, and we’re exploring new ways to produce them with a lower environmental impact. Transparency is crucial; it’s the foundation of meaningful change in the industry. We are deeply involved in upcoming regulations and always question if we’re heading in the right direction or if there might be a better way.”

Anna-Karin Wårfors highlights the importance of adapting to evolving standards, “We have three main pillars, similar to what Cecily mentioned, but the idea of making our operations more future-fit really stands out. We’ve pursued this goal for years, and right now, we’re focused on understanding how upcoming regulations and reporting requirements will impact us. As a sustainability manager, I look forward to this clarity – it will guide us on what to measure and what actions to take.”

➤ The increasing role of regulations is prompting the industry to rethink how it operates. While sustainability initiatives in the past often added costs, regulatory frameworks are now making these practices more economically viable by encouraging a focus on renewable and recyclable materials.

René compares regulations to a “hiking path” that guides the industry in the right direction: “They’re crucial for helping us avoid detours or wrong turns. At the European Commission and the German federal level, I’ve seen how we can influence these ‘path-makers’ to ensure the regulations move us forward. Regulations can help push everyone in the same direction, making sustainability economically viable.”

Cecily points out how Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes in countries like France have compelled companies to reconsider their approach to packaging. She shares an anecdote about a creatively designed shoebox that, while visually appealing, fell short of sustainability standards. Due to the costs associated with compliance under EPR schemes, the design was ultimately cancelled. “It’s an example of how legislation is helping the sustainability voice gain strength,” Cecily comments.

As a supplier of trims and packaging, Nilörn is committed to balancing sustainability with quality and unique aesthetics. By considering regulatory insights in our design processes, we aim to contribute to the industry’s efforts in finding solutions that prioritise sustainability while meeting consumer expectations.

➤ The upcoming Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) offers a helpful framework to guide brands toward more sustainable practices. Understanding the detailed material compositions of all product components is key to improving recyclability. Digital product passports are becoming critical tools for providing the necessary material information to sorting and recycling companies in the future.

René highlights the importance of creating long-lasting products: “Designing products that last, both physically and emotionally, is crucial, especially for high-value items. While recyclability is gaining attention, there is still a lack of clear definitions—particularly for complex products like textiles.” He stresses the challenge of balancing functionality and quality with eco-design, noting that while mono-material designs may improve recyclability, functionality and aesthetics often come first.

Cecily agrees, adding, “The principles are helpful as a guide for what we should aim for. It’s a complex process, and I think most brands, including ours, are still on this journey.” She emphasises the importance of life cycle assessments (LCAs), noting, “We now run LCAs on most of our products at a product level. Having data is invaluablewe are making decisions about our collections.”

At Nilörn, we recognise the current limitations in recycling textile parts and accessories, but we continue to closely monitor industry developments, striving to expand end-of-life options for our products as new technologies emerge.

➤ The shift towards more sustainable materials in the textile industry presents both challenges and opportunities. Factors such as cost, minimum order quantities (MOQs), and global availability remain significant hurdles. However, gradual scaling, testing, and collaboration across industries are helping to address these barriers and support the adoption of recycled and bio-based materials.

At Nilörn, we are committed to helping our clients transition to alternative materials for their trims and packaging by increasing the use of recycled content and introducing bio-based options over fossil-based ones wherever possible. However, adopting new materials comes with challenges, including higher costs, minimum order quantities (MOQs), and global availability. Managing a global supply chain means we aim to produce the same product in multiple locations to reduce transport-related emissions. “It’s a gradual process,” Anna-Karin notes. “A few years ago, we couldn’t recycle at all, then it became possible in some regions, and now it’s more widespread.”

Cecily echoes this sentiment, acknowledging the innovation happening but noting the hurdles in scaling up new materials. “The challenge is getting these materials into production. We haven’t seen many brands using them at scale yet because they are expensive, and MOQs are often a barrier. Our volumes are small, so would need to start small, test the materials on limited product lines, and expand from there. It’s challenging, but it’s the way forward.”

René highlights the complexities of adopting innovative materials, particularly when working further upstream in the value chain. Switching to new material sources or polymers adds complexity, especially when considering the end-of-life stage – will the necessary recycling technologies or waste streams be available? “There are many fascinating materials with fantastic properties that could solve current problems but scaling them depends largely on industries like chemicals and others outside of textiles.” Collaboration across industries is critical to unlocking new possibilities.

➤ The rise of AI and digital product development technologies is set to revolutionise the textile industry. They bring significant potential to enhance efficiency by for example streamlining design, reducing waste, and enabling faster, more sustainable production processes.

René shares, “We’re not that advanced in AI, but we’re working with 3D technology in product creation, which has helped reduce shipping prototypes and better visualise the end product early on.” Cecily adds, “One recent advancement for us is 3D printing. We’ve introduced it for in-house sampling, which reduces the need to ship samples to suppliers constantly and allows us to tweak designs more efficiently. We’re also exploring AI to support product design and development. It’s an exciting journey and brings a fresh wave of creativity and faster processes.”

At Nilörn we are monitoring the development of these new technologies and evaluating new tools that could benefit our processes and enhance our services within fully digital workflows.

➤ Relying on trusted suppliers fosters confidence and enhances sustainability efforts through established relationships. Transparency becomes essential, as companies must ensure their suppliers meet certification and sustainability requirements.

Cecily emphasises the value of working with nominated suppliers, stating, “Having a nominated supplier you can rely on is crucial. It’s reassuring to know that companies like Nilörn are forward-thinking and engaged in conversations about sustainability. Trust and traceability in the supply chain are invaluable.”

René adds, “Transparency is critical, and achieving it relies on having a nominated supplier who meets all certification and sustainability requirements. This will become even more vital with the upcoming digital product passport. Companies that haven’t nominated suppliers yet will need to comply with new regulations.”

Our sincere thanks go to our panellists for sharing their valuable insights. Our mission is to empower our clients by sharing our knowledge and fostering a culture of exchange, trust and collaboration. By working together, brands, suppliers, and regulators can create a future where innovation and compliance go hand in hand.